Monday, June 29, 2009

Roasted Salmon Atop Pasta With Fresh Tomato Sauce

I live in Spotsylvania, Va., and work in Bethesda, Md., about 65 miles door-to-door (and unpredictable hours on the infamous Beltway and I-95.) If I had to make this commute every day, I would probably grow to hate my job and/or my home--but luckily I have a great mother-in-law who resides in closer-in Vienna, Va.; I stay at her home about three nights a week, thus helping me retain my sanity as well as my love for job and family.

This is by way of explaining why I cook "meals for one" (mother-in-law and her husband eat on the early side, ceding the kitchen and grill to me after 7 pm.) I look forward to these nights: I drive home past active farmers markets and great supermarkets, so spontaneity, whimsy -- and my wallet -- serve as guides. This was tonight's meal, built on a small piece of salmon I had in a cooler bag in the car (dinner was takeout Sunday night, and it was cook or freeze; I chose the former since this was Copper River Salmon, a uniquely brilliant orange-red fish fresh from Alaska that is only available for about 6 weeks every year.) Normally I plank this fish, but tonight I chose to expand upon Mark Bittman's roasted salmon recipe and pair it with pasta and a fresh tomato sauce so as to keep the flavors fresh and bright and the prep time quick.

NOTE: While this calls for salmon, feel free to substitute your favorite fillet 'o fish; adjust cooking times as required (time given is for a piece of fish about three-quarters of an inch thick.) As for portion, scale accordingly.

Roasted Salmon Atop Pasta With Fresh Tomato Sauce

Serving: One

Ingredients:

Fish:

One small fillet of salmon (about a third of a pound); rinsed and patted dry; sprinkle with about 1 Tbsp. salt. Set aside on plate and refrigerate until ready to cook.

Sauce:

One-third cup extra virgin olive oil
Half an onion, sliced, then halve the slices
One red pepper, sliced then halve the slices
One clove garlic, minced
One fresh tomato, stemmed and cut into one-inch squares
2 Tbsp fresh oregano (or basil, or thyme) minced
Salt and pepper to taste

Pasta:

One quarter pound dried pasta of choice

Directions:

Preheat oven to 425 to roast fish. Have ready a roasting pan; in this pan, place 4 Tbsp. butter.

In large skillet or wok, heat oil for sauce over medium high heat. Add onions and peppers and cook until softened, but still crisp. Add garlic, cook for about 30 seconds, then add tomatoes and herbs. Add salt and pepper to taste; turn heat to low or under and let simmer.

Cook pasta to just under al dente, drain and reserve and mix in about 2 Tbsp. olive oil to keep from sticking.

When oven is heated, place roasting pan and butter in oven; heat until butter foam subsides and place fish skin side up (flesh down) into pan. Cook for 3-4 minutes, then flip; cook for another 3-4 minutes until flaky; remove from oven and pan to prevent over-cooking.

Plate pasta. Spoon sauce over, then top with salmon.

Enjoy!

OPTIONAL ADD-INS: Knowingly violating the "no cheese with fish" rule, fresh mozzarella or a good feta add some depth to the sauce; I've added Parmesan as well. If you're a black olive fan, oil-cured or Kalamata olives are good additions as well (in moderation, you don't want to over-salt this)

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

All In One Grill Dinner


I'll admit right up front that this is more food than one person should eat, but by way of explanation, I did my dinner shopping about 7 hours after a light lunch that was preceded by a 1-hour, heavy-duty kickboxing class...so there was a certain "I deserve this" mentality, mixed with the availability of some great ingredients.

This is a proof-of-concept kinda-meal: that you can, indeed, fix a fairly quick and really perfect meal on the grill. Cleanup is a snap...and the taste is incredible. While I've used the same basic marinade (garlic, olive oil and salt and pepper) on all ingredients, the tastes don't run together. As long as you use a light touch while cooking, and don't turn them to a sodden mess, the meat contrasts nicely with the green snap of the asparagus, roastiness of the corn and earthy funk of the mushroom.

NOTE: If your conscience/ethics bother you in regards to veal, substitute fish or chicken or other meat for the veal I used. With apologies to anyone who was offended by my choice of protein, the veal was local, on sale...and absolutely great.

All In One Grill Dinner

Serves 1; scale accordingly

Ingredients:

1 small, bone-in veal chop (or protein of your choice); wiped dry to promote searing
1 portobello mushroom, stem removed and cap wiped clean w/damp paper towel (don't touch the soft gills underneath!)
1 bunch asparagus, flabby ends removed
1 ear corn, husked and cleaned of silk

1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
lemon juice to finish asparagus
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat grill for at least 20 minutes (if using charcoal, wait until coals are lightly grayed over to cook)

On large plate, pour olive oil, garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Toss asparagus and corn in marinade, set aside on another plate.

Dredge both sides of mushroom in marinade, set aside.

Use rest of marinade to baste chop, adding more if necessary; shake off excess to prevent torching on the grill.

Cook chop for 2-4 minutes per side, depending on grill strength (I like mine medium rare, so times given are for that.) Set aside to rest.

Cook asparagus, corn and mushroom until done: asparagus should be crunchy yet slightly charred; corn kernels lightly blackened and mushroom cap lightly grilled and just this side of firm, after cooking on both sides. Remove to plate and squirt/spoon lemon juice on asparagus to freshen.

Serve and enjoy!

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Roasted Beets

Yes, I know, I never liked them when I was a child/teenager/college student either--but the beets I grew up with were of the sickly sweet "Harvard" variety ... a grisly mix of vinegar, sugar and cornstarch that were just, well, awful is about the best I can come up with. Like Brussels Sprouts and Blue Cheese, beets deserve a second taste when you're "old enough to appreciate," and this recipe for Roasted Beets is a favorite even with my children: the finished result has a great balance of that great roasty taste, with a little kick from the onion, garlic and olive oil. So, in that spirit, I encourage Matt and all my other beet hating friends to at least try this....besides, they're good for you!

Roasted Beets With Onions and Garlic

Serves 4 as a side dish

Ingredients:

2 pounds whole beets
1 large onion (red, white or yellow)
2 cloves garlic
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 425 degrees

Stem and peel the beets, then cut them in half, then cut them in 2-inch wedges--you want them the same size so they cook evenly. (NOTE: Peel beets when they're dry, it's much less messy and a whole lot easier.)

Peel and cut onion into approximately same size chunks as the beets.

Roughly chop garlic.

Combine beets, onion and garlic in bowl, toss with olive oil, salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer to roasting pan/sheet large enough to accommodate them in a single layer.

Roast for one hour, or until tender, turning once or twice during that time.

A GREAT ADD-IN: My family loves roasted vegetables, so I frequently add an equal amount of chopped carrots to this. And if you like an herbal kick, go ahead and stir in some freshly chopped rosemary at the end.....

Monday, June 22, 2009

Squash Blossoms

More of an appreciation and suggestion than a recipe, I encourage you to buy some squash blossoms if you're lucky enough to have a farmers market vendor or other produce source connected enough to the land to offer these seasonal beauties.

I've found them for sale at my farmers market the past 4 weeks running. Priced at about $4 a dozen, they're not exactly a bargain...but when properly prepared they practically shout "FRESH!" with every bite.

They are a flower, so squash blossoms are extremely delicate and perishable--best to cook them the day you buy them. My favorite treatment is pretty standard...but no matter how many times I've prepared it, this always wows. You don't want to overwhelm the delicate squash flavor these have, so use a really light hand when preparing, seasoning and cooking. Simply spoon a teaspoon or two of shredded or soft cheese (I use Cabot white cheddar) into the bottom of each blossom, swirl in an egg batter and roll in panko crumbs. Fry quickly in a little bit of butter, drain briefly on paper towels and serve.

If they're still available this weekend, I'm going to experiment with a little spiced crab meat instead of (or maybe with) cheese....squash blossom mini crabcakes anyone?

Friday, June 19, 2009

Grilled Vegetable Lasagna

So my 14-year-old daughter Lisa has decided that eating anything that has a furry face is not for her. I'm actually thankful for this culinary challenge, as it's forced me to move beyond the comfortable realm of meat in search of nutritional meals that fit the bill. Following is my take on a Vegetarian Lasagna that combines my love of grilled food and gooey cheesy Italian -- and Lisa's desire for a non-meat main course. Preparation is a bit complicated, but well worth the effort. Lisa loved it...and like most lasagna, it's even better the second day.

The vegetable ingredients are suggestions only--go with what's available at the market/store and/or suits your own palette (conceding here that eggplant is not every one's favorite). I've offered ones that offer lots of color and variety, but it's what you and your dining partner(s) like that's most important.

Grilled Vegetable Lasagna
Serves 8

Prologue: You're going to cook a lot of separate components first, then assemble into one pan. I admit it's some work...but trust me, if you don't overcook the vegetables, and go heavy on cheeses, this is great.

Preheat oven to 375

Grease one lasagna pan/small roasting pan with olive oil and set aside.

Ingredients:

Noodles:

One box no-bake lasagna noodles (I know, homemade is best...and I've gone that route with great results. But thinking you may want to spend some time away from the kitchen, Barilla's noodles are great substitutes here.)

Sauce:

1/3 cup olive oil
2 large cans best-quality whole Italian plum tomatoes you can afford (San Marzano? Go for it...but I use Tuttorosso)
2-4 cloves garlic to taste
freshly ground salt and pepper

Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and saute for about 30 seconds, then add tomatoes, crushing between your fingers as you go. Add liquid from one can; reserve rest (use if sauce starts to evaporate too quickly as you cook it down). Bring to a quick boil, then turn heat down to low or under and let simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove cover after 30 minutes and let reduce for another 30 minutes over low heat (so low that sauce bubbles about once every 10 seconds or so.)

While sauce cooks, prepare and grill vegetables:

1/2 cup assorted chopped fresh herbs (e.g. rosemary, basil, sage, parsley, oregano, thyme)
1 eggplant, sliced into rounds, then halved
2 large red onions, peeled and quartered length-wise, then in half. (Keep root end on to prevent onion from falling apart)
2 large peppers (red, yellow, green--your choice) cleaned and sliced into wide strips
2 zucchini, cut into inch-wide planks, then in half
1 summer (yellow) squash, cut inch-wide planks, then in half
4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

Toss with about 1/4 cup olive oil and a liberal dose of salt and pepper.

Grill over medium high heat until slightly charred, but not soft--crunch is key to this dish. (I use a grill frying pan and basically stir-fry on the grill for about 5-10 minutes depending on grill's heat)

Remove from heat and place in bowl.

Make cheese mixture:

12 ounces ricotta
2 eggs, beaten

1 lb mozzarella, shredded (put in freezer for about 30 minutes ahead of time; it will help in shredding)

1/2 cup Parmesan, grated

Combine eggs and ricotta; fold in half of the mozzarella and half the Parmesan; reserve rest.

Assembly:

When sauce is finished, ladle about a cup into bottom of pan. Place a layer of noodles on top of sauce, breaking if necessary to accommodate/fill in gaping holes. On top of noodles, spread thin layer of mozzarella/ricotta/egg mixture, then a layer of grilled vegetables, then sprinkle a bit of Parmesan and shredded mozzarella. Repeat with layer of noodles, cheese mixture, and veggies. Finish with layer of noodles, sauce and last of mozzarella and Parmesan mixture. Dot with 4-6 pats of butter, cover with foil and cook for 45 minutes. Remove foil, rotate pan and cook for another 15-30 minutes until cheese is golden brown and bubbling (I've broiled for last 5 minutes as well to make even crispier.) Remove from oven and let cool for 10 minutes until plating.

Serve with grated cheese ... and "a good Chianti"

Lamb Souvlaki, Tzatziki and Grilled Asparagus

I house-sat for a friend in Bethesda recently, and made this the other night as thanks. Served with grilled asparagus, while not a traditional Greek side, it's one of my favorite veggies this time of year.

Serves 4

Lamb Souvlaki

2lbs boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1.5-inch cubes
Juice of one lemon
3 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground pepper
1 Tbsp fresh oregano
1-2 cloves garlic (to taste) roughly chopped
1/2 medium white onion, diced small

Combine all ingredients in non-reactive bowl, transfer to a large plastic bag and marinate in fridge 8-24 hours.

When ready to cook:

Chop into quarters 1 large white onion, combine with olive oil, salt, pepper and paprika

Grill lamb and onions together; serve with tzatziki (recipe follows)

1 medium cucumber, peeled, sliced and finely chopped
1/4 tsp salt
1 cup plain yogurt
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp (or more to taste) fresh lemon juice
1 tsp minced fresh dill or oregano
1 tsp minced garlic

Combine ingredients and adjust for seasoning

Grilled Asparagus

1 lb asparagus, flabby ends broken off
Juice of one lemon
1/4 cup olive oil
1 garlic clove minced
salt and pepper to taste

When heating grill, toss asparagus with rest of the ingredients.

Cook on grill while meat rests, until charred, but not soft.

Spritz with lemon juice before serving.

Welcome to my blog

Greetings!

My name is Charlie Borst. I live in central Virginia and work in suburban Maryland. I'm the father of two great teenage girls and husband to Elizabeth, a warm, caring and beautiful spouse.

But this is not a blog about me or my family. As the name implies, I like, no, make that love to cook (I had to settle for "like" for the name of the blog, as "Charlie Loves to Cook" was already taken.) Cooking has always been one of my life's real passions. I love the transformative nature of the act: not only the chemical and physical things that happen to food when elements are combined and heat is applied, but the pure sensual and emotional response from those who partake. I've started this blog then not only to share some of my recipes and experiences, but to seek comments and suggestions on how to make it all better.

To me, cooking --and great meals that result from it -- is all about using natural, and most of all, fresh ingredients. My inspirations are seasonal: in spring, summer and early fall, they come from what's available at the locally-grown (within a 100-mile radius) farmers market. In non-growing seasons or to supplement, I take my cooking cues from the produce aisle or the fish and meat counters. As much as I can, I resist cooking from a box or a can or a freezer. I'm a big fan of savory food: while I can and do bake, it's often as more of an accompaniment than the main attraction. Like most 50-somethings I know, I'm trying to cut down on excess fats and too much meat--but you will find lots grilled meats and roasts on my table...and I'm a huge fan of butter as a necessary and complementary ingredient for almost anything.

My recipe inspirations are book and Web-driven, but I frequently depart the text and improvise. My favorite sources include Mark Bittman ("How to Cook Everything"), Mitchell Davis ("Kitchen Sense"), Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby ("License to Grill"), Marcella Hazan ("The Classic Italian Cookbook") and Cameron Stracher ("Dinner With Dad"). I'm a huge fan of Cook's Illustrated for breaking down the whys and wherefores of cooking (who would have known that cutting an onion with the grain produces a different taste than cutting across the grain?) I watch Food Network more for entertainment value than learning, and I detest shows like "Hell's Kitchen" for making food preparation a competitive and confrontational act. I enjoy watching Anthony Bourdain, but that's more for the exotic locale and the host's frequent imbibing.

Lastly, I'm a huge believer that while good equipment helps, it's more about ingredients and technique than brands. Don't get me wrong: I love my Shun knives and All-Clad pans--and I'll readily admit that I lust after a Wolfe cooktop as much as most men long for a 52-inch plasma TV--but I've cooked some pretty great meals on a standard GE gas cooktop and my mid-priced grills.

So that's me...I hope you enjoy the food. As Chairman Kaga would say, "Allez Cuisine!"